Crossing over from Macedonia at 1,500m altitude, we return to the European Union and into Bulgaria one of the newest members. Our initial research indicated that even motorbikes require vignettes to use any major road, however the customs officials just wave us through.

Over the border from Kosovo and its our first chance to use our green cards, saving us a reported €50 each. Ohrid (Охрид) in the south-west corner of the country, is our destination.

Ten kilometers after exiting Montenegro we arrive at the border crossing into Kosovo. There is a vacant gunner tower opposite the insurance office, likely due to recent violence at nearby crossing points. When we're there the crossing is quiet and a pack of puppies are on hand to greet us.

Straight from Croatia into the Bay of Kotor, and there is a nice breeze. The road from the border to the Bay is busy and slow with numerous resort complexes & developments scattered along the shoreline. You can drive around the bay itself to Kotor, which is heaving, accommodation seems to be both expensive and

The border crossing is tiny. Two portacabins beside each other, one for leaving Bosnia, and one with a solitary Croatian border guard who checks our passports and registration documents, then manually raises the barrier. The border (and "Welcome to Croatia" signs) are passed first, and only a few minutes later do we come upon the

Our first mistake was to enter the Bosnia on a Sunday afternoon without a Green Card. We crossed the border at Brod/Брод in the north, where the guard took our passports, looked at our registration documents and told us that the office to buy insurance was closed.

Connacht and more specifically the areas of Connemara in West Galway, Mayo and Sligo are rich in mountains, twisty rural roads and sheep - they're everywhere, especially in the Connemara so be prepared to stop.

Immediately to the south of Dublin yet almost unknown to its inhabitants, are the Wicklow Hills. Steep hills enclose a large area of raised desolate bogland.